This Sunday I participated in the first of 3 route setting clinics at Vertical Endeavors. In this session we each got to set a boulder problem in the B1 area of the Minneapolis gym. It was a lot of fun getting to put some holds on the walls I’ve been climbing. I’ve been reading a lot of the posts on the Route Crafting Blog, to learn how to force movement and create a good route. I still have a lot to learn but I’m excited that I’ve finally started setting. I should have taken a picture of my first route, maybe I’ll do that later. But for now here’s a little breakdown of my problem.
It starts with two hands on a good jug, a semi-crappy left foot, and a nice corner to smear the right for into. The first move has the climber going up left to a decent-sized pinch. From there I like to do a hand-heel match on the starting jug, before moving the right hand to good crimp. Then the left hand moves to a small, crimpy pinch. From there I put my left foot on the first decent pinch, and the right hand comes over the top to a decent crimp(yeah, a lot of crimps on this route…the word is starting to sound funny). After this there is a decent sized gaston to a good jug. You can move your feet up, and then gain the final hold, a juggy-crimp. Ending with a cross to the top of the wall. I think the route has a lot of nice movement, and was a decent first attempt. I look forward to creating more problems, and learning how to force more movements!
Highlights from the Championship round of the Dark Horse series. The Dark Horse series is a competitive Bouldering series held at MetroRock Climbing gyms in the Northeastern United States. It brings in pro climbers from around the world as well as amateur talent. The place where your average Joe can see how they stack up against the best.
An in depth look at Dave Graham working on the problem “Meadowlark Lemon” in Red Rocks. This is the type of video I love. You get a real good look at the problem, and a bit of insight as to how a pro goes about working a project. Awesome send Dave!
I need to rest…I’ve been putting this off for about 2 months now, but it’s time to take a few days off and allow my skin to grow. The constant application of drying agent to my hands, combined with the parched air of winter has caused a chronic crack in the tip of my middle finger. Every time I make a move to my right hand I’m reminded of the turmoil I’ve put my hands through. Each time the wound begins to heal my eternal optimism tells me that I can keep climbing, it wont open up again. Until I whack my hand against a hold and feel the sharp sting of skin being torn apart. As I look again at my beat up finger, the deep red of the blood makes its way past layers of thick calloused skin. Against the whiteness of my chalked hands the red is somewhat beautiful, but what it represents is inherently evil. I need to take a break…hopefully a few days of applying lotion, covering the wound(s) (I have a few others now too…) and not putting tremendous amounts of stress on them, will have me all healed and sending again. Time to read up on route setting.
Well I don’t have much of a plan…I was considering doing a 6-week Strength Endurance plan from ClimbStrong, but I’m a little too lazy/I’d rather just climb. I am however going to supplement my climbing with elements from this plan, as well as some Hangboard workouts that aren’t mentioned there.
To start myself off, last night I spent about an hour doing hard bouldering, after which I did 4 sets of pyramids on the hangboard, and then the pull-up workout mentioned in the training plan. I plan to alternate the pyramid exercise with a repeater workout, and I’m trying to add more roped climbing for endurance. I’m hoping these additions to my regimen will be enough to see an improvement in my climbing by next month.
With just over a month until the annual Passion for Flashin’ competition at Vertical Endeavors, it’s time to kick it into high gear. I’ve never really adhered to any sort of training program, usually I just try to climb more. But I would like to continue my recent improvements and I think this competition will be good motivation for me to do so. Also posting on the internet that I plan to train may help me as well. My next post will consist of what I actually plan to do to train…hopefully 😛
Climb on my friends.
Last night while working out at my local Vertical Endeavors, I had a major breakthrough in my climbing. I managed to complete each move on a route rated V7. After spending nearly a year stuck at around the V5 range I have finally started to make some obvious forward progress, and that has enhanced my excitement for the sport even more!
I’ve also been working a V8 in my past two sessions, and I think with more time, and a little luck I might get that one to go as well. It’s a crimpy little number, which is just my style, but I’m having trouble with a hard Gaston move on a very steep part of the wall. We’ll see how it goes 🙂
I hope to go back tonight to link all the moves on the V7. Looking forward to getting outside and testing my climbing prowess on some real rock this Spring!
Climb On my friends!!