Leaving My Mark On the Wall

This Sunday I participated in the first of 3 route setting clinics at Vertical Endeavors.  In this session we each got to set a boulder problem in the B1 area of the Minneapolis gym.  It was a lot of fun getting to put some holds on the walls I’ve been climbing.  I’ve been reading a lot of the posts on the Route Crafting Blog, to learn how to force movement and create a good route.  I still have  a lot to learn but I’m excited that I’ve finally started setting.  I should have taken a picture of my first route, maybe I’ll do that later.  But for now here’s a little breakdown of my problem.

It starts with two hands on a good jug, a semi-crappy left foot, and a nice corner to smear the right for into.  The first move has the climber going up left to a decent-sized pinch.  From there I like to do a hand-heel match on the starting jug, before moving the right hand to good crimp.  Then the left hand moves to a small, crimpy pinch.  From there I put my left foot on the first decent pinch, and the right hand comes over the top to a decent crimp(yeah, a lot of crimps on this route…the word is starting to sound funny).  After this there is a decent sized gaston to a good jug.  You can move your feet up, and then gain the final hold, a juggy-crimp.  Ending with a cross to the top of the wall.  I think the route has a lot of nice movement, and was a decent first attempt.  I look forward to creating more problems, and learning how to force more movements!

By adamwold

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