This Sunday I participated in the first of 3 route setting clinics at Vertical Endeavors. In this session we each got to set a boulder problem in the B1 area of the Minneapolis gym. It was a lot of fun getting to put some holds on the walls I’ve been climbing. I’ve been reading a lot of the posts on the Route Crafting Blog, to learn how to force movement and create a good route. I still have a lot to learn but I’m excited that I’ve finally started setting. I should have taken a picture of my first route, maybe I’ll do that later. But for now here’s a little breakdown of my problem.
It starts with two hands on a good jug, a semi-crappy left foot, and a nice corner to smear the right for into. The first move has the climber going up left to a decent-sized pinch. From there I like to do a hand-heel match on the starting jug, before moving the right hand to good crimp. Then the left hand moves to a small, crimpy pinch. From there I put my left foot on the first decent pinch, and the right hand comes over the top to a decent crimp(yeah, a lot of crimps on this route…the word is starting to sound funny). After this there is a decent sized gaston to a good jug. You can move your feet up, and then gain the final hold, a juggy-crimp. Ending with a cross to the top of the wall. I think the route has a lot of nice movement, and was a decent first attempt. I look forward to creating more problems, and learning how to force more movements!