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The First 9a Onsight

The First 9a Onsight

Alex Megos talks of his onsight ascent of Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain.

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“But last year Adam (Ondra) came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds.”

“But last year Adam (Ondra) came along, we started to try it together and I realised that I could actually use these holds.”

Chris Sharma talks about the process needed to repeat “La Dura Dura”, the now confirmed 9b+ route that he bolted in Olaina, Spain four years ago!

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SCS Nationals Promo

https://vimeo.com/62588746

Confirming my post from yesterday, SCS Open Nationals will be broadcast live thanks to LT11!

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LT11 to broadcast SCS Nationals

https://vimeo.com/61194622

Based off a recent facebook status [http://www.facebook.com/louderthan11], it sounds like LT11 will be doing another live broadcast for Sport Climbing Series Open Nationals. I can’t wait to see what improvements their experience from broadcasting ABS14 will bring!

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Climbing

Bishop Wrap-up

I rolled back into St. Paul last night after 5 amazing days in Bishop. I didn’t get as many sends as I had hoped for but it was great to get outside to climb. I really need to practice on real rock more.

On the second day of the trip we went to the Buttermilks again in the morning. I worked on The Dripper, which I sent that day, The Knobs, High Plains Drifter and the Bowling Pin. In the afternoon we headed to the Happy Boulders where I worked on Solarium for a little bit after some warm up climbs. However my skin and muscles were aching at this point, and I was unable to get the send. The next day was supposed to be a rest day but we did go to the Happy Boulders again in the morning. I again worked on Solarium, but the pockets did not feel good on my tendons and we left after a short session. We were going to go to the hot springs afterward but unfortunately they were closed that day! We ended up finding a dog park in town for Henry to play at, and we had some fun walking down main street checking out the local shops.

On Wednesday we headed to the Happy Boulders again. After watching some videos of others climbing “Solarium”, I finally had my beta down and made quick work of the problem. After that I spent some time working out “The Hulk” but I was not able to complete it.

We then went out to the hot springs and the soak was very refreshing! Afterwards we drove up to the Buttermilks but were thwarted by high winds.

I spent my last day at the Buttermilks and managed to send “The Knobs” and “Go Granny Go”. I also made good progress on “High Plains Drifter” but was unable to complete the crux move, before deciding to move on.

I can’t wait to go back to Bishop again. There is so much rock to be climbed there, I’ve barely scratched the surface!

Here is a video of my main ascents of the trip. Enjoy!

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Climbing

One more day in Bishop

One more day in Bishop

The trip thus far has not been as productive as I’d hoped. This morning I sent Solarium (V4) in the Happys, and Monday I sent The Dripper (V4) or the Drifter boulder. I spent some time working the Knobs (V5) and High Plains Drifter (V7) but did not have any luck. I just watched some videos of the Knobs being climbed and with the new beta I will go for a send on my final day tomorrow. I also hope to spend more time working on High Planes Drifter, and the bowling pin.

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Climbing

Buttermilks: Day 1

Buttermilks: Day 1

We made it to Bishop late last night. After a few hours of sleep we headed to Wilson’s Eastside Sports to pick up an additional pad. I wasn’t very focused today, did some warm up problems then gave the Iron Man traverse a few tries. I got to the move to the lip a few times, but didn’t have the endurance to hold it. Here’s a nice shot from one of my attempts(photo credit: Candice Todryk).

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Daniel Woods on “Lucid Dreaming”

Daniel Woods on “Lucid Dreaming”

Daniel talks about his short trip to Bishop, CA to give Paul Robinson’s “Lucid Dreaming” (V15) a try.

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Chris Webb Parsons’ secret to success ;)

Here’s a nice example of a hangboard workout from Chris Webb Parsons. I think I’ll have to give this program a try when I get back from Bishop 🙂

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Super sticky rubber coming from 5.10 this Fall

Charles Cole talks about the new Five Ten Stealth MI6 rubber, originally developed for climbing glass! But how long will a shoe with this rubber last? We’ll find out this fall!