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Caldwell and Honnold complete epic traverse in Patagonia

Map of the path taken by Caldwell and Honnold

Caldwell and Honnold complete epic traverse in Patagonia

Rolando Garibotti reports on Super Topo of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold’s completion of the “Fitz Traverse”, a truly amazing achievement!

“Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed “Fitz Traverse”, climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia. “

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Daniel Woods nabs 2nd ascent of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming(V15) in the Buttermilks.

Daniel Woods nabs 2nd ascent of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming(V15) in the Buttermilks.

From DW’s Instagram “Last night was a surreal moment for me. It was pitch black out with a couple lights shining to light up the golden pathway of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming (v15). The humidity and cold combination was just right to be able and stick to the glassy non existent holds. I had a nervous feeling in my stomach about what was going to happen if I got through the crux section and had to commit to the final 30 foot slab section in the dark (I did have a headlamp for the slab). Luckily, I had an amazing support crew to help me stay in the zone. I blasted my beats on my @goalzero #rockout2 speaker, chalked up and set off. Every move felt perfect and before I knew it, I was on top of the Grandpa Peabody boulder for Lucid’s 2nd ascent. This line is stunning, aggressive, and committing. Props to Paul for linking these moves”-DW

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Alex Honnold: A Question of Risk

https://vimeo.com/84716329

In a new series from Black Diamond, Alex Honnold talks about the aspect of “risk” in the climbing, and everyday activities, he does.

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Alex Honnold Frees 1,500 ft. El Sendero Luminoso in Mexico

Alex Honnold Frees 1,500 ft. El Sendero Luminoso in Mexico

Take a look at Outside magazines account of Honnold’s latest free solo escapade, climbing the 1,500 foot limestone route El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico.  A route the contains many pitches of technical 5.12 climbing, Alex and climbing partner Cedar Wright practiced the route four times before Honnold’s solo attempt, which Alex says “..felt pretty straight forward.”

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Paul Robinson gets 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods’ The Nest (8C) and gives insight to Meadowlark Lemon Downgrade

After 8a.nu posted the news that Paul had made the 3rd ascent of The Nest in Red Rocks, Nevada, Dan Cannaday posed an inquiry as to Paul’s thoughts on the downgrade of his Red Rocks line Meadowlark Lemon (8B+, originally 8C).  Paul kindly responded with his thoughts.  See below. 

“That is a very good question, Dan.  To preface, my beta on Meadowlark Lemon was very different from each of the ascents after mine.  I worked the boulder alone and found a way to get to the top and though it may have not been the easiest it was feasible and that is the way I climbed it.  For me, this felt like 8C and I am assuming others would feel the same way.  New beta was discovered and refined and thus the downgrade to 8B+.  This happens with time and there is no harm in a downgrade when beta gets refined and perfected after the first ascentionist climbs the boulder.

If I was grading the two boulders off of how they felt to me (original MLL beta), I think MLL may be slightly harder as it was more consistently hard than the nest.  However, the nest has 1 move on it that is much harder than any single move on MLL.  This makes it difficult to grade, however, I do believe it falls within the 8C grade.  It is actualy quite interesting because Daniel, Jimmy, and myself did the crux of the nest all differently but thought it to be around the same difficulty.  It really shows the strengths of each climber and how we climb so uniquely at our limits.  

This is why it is so hard to rate boulders to begin with… we all climb so uniquely and that is what makes our sport so special :)”-Paul Robinson

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Dave Graham vs Hypnotized Minds – Part 1

https://www.island.io/sean-morgan/dg-vs-hypnotized-minds-part-1

Head over to The Island to check out Dave Graham working on the unrepeated Daniel Woods testpiece, Hypnotized Minds (8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park!

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Daniel Woods-“This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing”

Two days ago Daniel Woods nabbed the FA of the sit-start variation of Dave Graham’s “The Ice Knife” (8B+). Below are Daniel’s thoughts on the problem from his 8a. The video is of Paul and Daniel climbing the stand-start.

Enjoy!

“The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest. The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that.”

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Island.io Contributer

AdamWarmupSlab4

I thought I’d mention that I became a contributor to the climbing media blog Island.io. I’m very excited to have my photos among those of some of the best climbers in the world! Here’s an album of photo’s from Sawmill Creek Dome, in Northern Minnesota, hope you like them!

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Nalle Down Under

https://vimeo.com/36517719

Seems like most of climbing’s elite athletes choose to spend what would be the summer months in the Northern Hemisphere, climbing in cooler temps in the Grampians. Here’s a video of Nalle Hukkataival getting his climb on down under! Enjoy!

Edit: thought this was new, looks like it’s from 2011, still great climbing!

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Chris Sharma Down Under

Chris Sharma recently spent some time in the Grampians of Australia, climbing some of the classic lines on some of the best Sandstone in the world. One climb featured in the video is Grove Train(33/8c/5.14b) there is also a short snippet of Chris bouldering what looks like The Wheel of Life(V15). Pretty sweet!