After 8a.nu posted the news that Paul had made the 3rd ascent of The Nest in Red Rocks, Nevada, Dan Cannaday posed an inquiry as to Paul’s thoughts on the downgrade of his Red Rocks line Meadowlark Lemon (8B+, originally 8C). Paul kindly responded with his thoughts. See below.
“That is a very good question, Dan. To preface, my beta on Meadowlark Lemon was very different from each of the ascents after mine. I worked the boulder alone and found a way to get to the top and though it may have not been the easiest it was feasible and that is the way I climbed it. For me, this felt like 8C and I am assuming others would feel the same way. New beta was discovered and refined and thus the downgrade to 8B+. This happens with time and there is no harm in a downgrade when beta gets refined and perfected after the first ascentionist climbs the boulder.
If I was grading the two boulders off of how they felt to me (original MLL beta), I think MLL may be slightly harder as it was more consistently hard than the nest. However, the nest has 1 move on it that is much harder than any single move on MLL. This makes it difficult to grade, however, I do believe it falls within the 8C grade. It is actualy quite interesting because Daniel, Jimmy, and myself did the crux of the nest all differently but thought it to be around the same difficulty. It really shows the strengths of each climber and how we climb so uniquely at our limits.
This is why it is so hard to rate boulders to begin with… we all climb so uniquely and that is what makes our sport so special :)”-Paul Robinson
Here’s the video by Beau Kahler of Daniels Woods sending the 60-move behemoth of a boulder problem in the Land Down Under. Brought to you by the fine crafters of crash pads, Organic Climbing . Some words from Daniel on the send can be found in this previous post
Head over to TheIsland.io to check out some great footage of Dave Graham and Jon Cardwell projecting new boulders in 2008. I gotta say, I really would love to be friends with Dave Graham. Also the music in this video is pretty rad!
The Access Fund and Minnesota Climbers Association have partnered to acquire land in Sandstone, MN that is known to have some of the best bouldering in the state. This land was previously privately own, and because of this access had been limited to those who knew the owners, or had experience with the land. Funds are needed to finish the acquisition and for future improvements. More information can be found on the Access Fund’s Website and on the MCA’s website. Make your donations on the Access Fund’s site to avoid the Paypal processing fee! Give now and lets keep Sandstone Bouldering open for the future!
Congrats to all the climbers that competed at last weekends SCS 2013 Divisionals at Hoosier Heights in Indianapolis, IN. The Twin Cities VE Mountain Goats had a number of climbers qualify for the National competition, as well as first place finishes by Kyle Struthers in Male Youth-B, Kyra Condie in Female Youth-A, and Noah Ridge in Male Juniors. Way to represent!
This Saturday I went up to Sawmill Creek Dome on the North Shore of Lake Superior for a fun day of bouldering. It was only my second time climbing in the area. My first trip to Sawmill was a somewhat miserable affair. The weather happened to be colder than expected, with snow falling sporadically throughout the day, and I, unfortunately, had neglected to pack sufficient clothing. So I froze my ass off. For this trip the weather was much warmer, but that also meant the friction was not as good. That made some of the harder climbs even more difficult, as success on these problems can greatly depend on how well your skin can adhere to the course textures of the Anorthosite rocks. It was a lot of fun though. I got on a couple of problems I hadn’t tried before such as Absolution, a tenuous V5 high ball, and The Warmup slab. This photo is me trying out a project, which Kris Johnson nabbed the supposed FA of minutes after this photo was taken.
A Gift From Wyoming Pt. 2 Here’s the second on Alex Honnold’s FA of “A Gift From Wyoming” in Yosemite Valley. In this video we see Alex bolting the route, and begin to work out the Beta of the 180 ft. pitch, and finally send the route. The first video can be found in a previous post here Enjoy!