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Climbing

Bishop Wrap-up

I rolled back into St. Paul last night after 5 amazing days in Bishop. I didn’t get as many sends as I had hoped for but it was great to get outside to climb. I really need to practice on real rock more.

On the second day of the trip we went to the Buttermilks again in the morning. I worked on The Dripper, which I sent that day, The Knobs, High Plains Drifter and the Bowling Pin. In the afternoon we headed to the Happy Boulders where I worked on Solarium for a little bit after some warm up climbs. However my skin and muscles were aching at this point, and I was unable to get the send. The next day was supposed to be a rest day but we did go to the Happy Boulders again in the morning. I again worked on Solarium, but the pockets did not feel good on my tendons and we left after a short session. We were going to go to the hot springs afterward but unfortunately they were closed that day! We ended up finding a dog park in town for Henry to play at, and we had some fun walking down main street checking out the local shops.

On Wednesday we headed to the Happy Boulders again. After watching some videos of others climbing “Solarium”, I finally had my beta down and made quick work of the problem. After that I spent some time working out “The Hulk” but I was not able to complete it.

We then went out to the hot springs and the soak was very refreshing! Afterwards we drove up to the Buttermilks but were thwarted by high winds.

I spent my last day at the Buttermilks and managed to send “The Knobs” and “Go Granny Go”. I also made good progress on “High Plains Drifter” but was unable to complete the crux move, before deciding to move on.

I can’t wait to go back to Bishop again. There is so much rock to be climbed there, I’ve barely scratched the surface!

Here is a video of my main ascents of the trip. Enjoy!

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Climbing

One more day in Bishop

One more day in Bishop

The trip thus far has not been as productive as I’d hoped. This morning I sent Solarium (V4) in the Happys, and Monday I sent The Dripper (V4) or the Drifter boulder. I spent some time working the Knobs (V5) and High Plains Drifter (V7) but did not have any luck. I just watched some videos of the Knobs being climbed and with the new beta I will go for a send on my final day tomorrow. I also hope to spend more time working on High Planes Drifter, and the bowling pin.

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Climbing

Buttermilks: Day 1

Buttermilks: Day 1

We made it to Bishop late last night. After a few hours of sleep we headed to Wilson’s Eastside Sports to pick up an additional pad. I wasn’t very focused today, did some warm up problems then gave the Iron Man traverse a few tries. I got to the move to the lip a few times, but didn’t have the endurance to hold it. Here’s a nice shot from one of my attempts(photo credit: Candice Todryk).

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Climbing

Adam Ondra, on “Change” 9b+

http://vimeo.com/61040319

Here you go ladies and gents, Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Change” a route graded 5.15c/9b+, it is the first of this difficulty. The route is located in a cave in the small town of Flatanger, Norway. Adam scent it on October 4th, 2012. Enjoy!!!

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Climbing

Great interview of MN local Kyra Condie, by JustClimbMN, coming off two amazing weekends at ABS14 and ABS Youth Nationals!

JustClimbMN

This year, USA Climbing’s ABS Open National Championships were streamed live online for the first time by a climbing media company called Louder Than 11.  In Minnesota, some of us were glued to our monitors not only watching pros like Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods battling for victory, but also to see home grown heroine, 16 year old Kyra Condie, in her first ever ABS Open National where she took 9th place overall.

One week later, Kyra returned to the same auditorium for her 5th appearance at ABS Youth National Championships to successfully defend her title as the number one female in the Youth A division.  Unfortunately, live streaming this event was not in USA Climbing’s budget and updates coming out of Colorado Springs were scarce.

So, with the 2013 American Bouldering Series all wrapped up, I reached out to Kyra to ask about her experience in the big leagues, retaining her…

View original post 1,464 more words

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Climbing

Climbing Scandal 2013!!

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/hammered-and-chiseled

The climbing world is abuzz tonight as video of a man (allegedly Ivan Greene) hammering away at a boulder was thrown on the internet for all to see. Chipping is something I had heard mention of a few times before, but seeing it in action here is really quite repulsive. If you can’t climb what mother nature provided, get on something else out there or get in the gym!! LEAVE. NO. TRACE.

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Climbing

Leaving My Mark On the Wall

This Sunday I participated in the first of 3 route setting clinics at Vertical Endeavors.  In this session we each got to set a boulder problem in the B1 area of the Minneapolis gym.  It was a lot of fun getting to put some holds on the walls I’ve been climbing.  I’ve been reading a lot of the posts on the Route Crafting Blog, to learn how to force movement and create a good route.  I still have  a lot to learn but I’m excited that I’ve finally started setting.  I should have taken a picture of my first route, maybe I’ll do that later.  But for now here’s a little breakdown of my problem.

It starts with two hands on a good jug, a semi-crappy left foot, and a nice corner to smear the right for into.  The first move has the climber going up left to a decent-sized pinch.  From there I like to do a hand-heel match on the starting jug, before moving the right hand to good crimp.  Then the left hand moves to a small, crimpy pinch.  From there I put my left foot on the first decent pinch, and the right hand comes over the top to a decent crimp(yeah, a lot of crimps on this route…the word is starting to sound funny).  After this there is a decent sized gaston to a good jug.  You can move your feet up, and then gain the final hold, a juggy-crimp.  Ending with a cross to the top of the wall.  I think the route has a lot of nice movement, and was a decent first attempt.  I look forward to creating more problems, and learning how to force more movements!

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Climbing

Dark Horse Season 4: Championship Highlights

Highlights from the Championship round of the Dark Horse series. The Dark Horse series is a competitive Bouldering series held at MetroRock Climbing gyms in the Northeastern United States. It brings in pro climbers from around the world as well as amateur talent. The place where your average Joe can see how they stack up against the best.

Enjoy!

-Adam

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Climbing

Lurkin on the Lark

http://island.io/AkreapSB

An in depth look at Dave Graham working on the problem “Meadowlark Lemon” in Red Rocks. This is the type of video I love. You get a real good look at the problem, and a bit of insight as to how a pro goes about working a project. Awesome send Dave!

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Climbing

No Skin Off My Back….errr Fingers.

I need to rest…I’ve been putting this off for about 2 months now, but it’s time to take a few days off and allow my skin to grow.  The constant application of drying agent to my hands, combined with the parched air of winter has caused a chronic crack in the tip of my middle finger.  Every time I make a move to my right hand I’m reminded of the turmoil I’ve put my hands through.  Each time the wound begins to heal my eternal optimism tells me that I can keep climbing, it wont open up again.  Until I whack my hand against a hold and feel the sharp sting of skin being torn apart.  As I look again at my beat up finger, the deep red of the blood makes its way past layers of thick calloused skin.  Against the whiteness of my chalked hands the red is somewhat beautiful, but what it represents is inherently evil.  I need to take a break…hopefully a few days of applying lotion, covering the wound(s) (I have a few others now too…) and not putting tremendous amounts of stress on them, will have me all healed and sending again.  Time to read up on route setting.

Cheers,

-Adam