In a new series from Black Diamond, Alex Honnold talks about the aspect of “risk” in the climbing, and everyday activities, he does.
Take a look at Outside magazines account of Honnold’s latest free solo escapade, climbing the 1,500 foot limestone route El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. A route the contains many pitches of technical 5.12 climbing, Alex and climbing partner Cedar Wright practiced the route four times before Honnold’s solo attempt, which Alex says “..felt pretty straight forward.”
Head over to The Island to check out Dave Graham working on the unrepeated Daniel Woods testpiece, Hypnotized Minds (8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park!
Two days ago Daniel Woods nabbed the FA of the sit-start variation of Dave Graham’s “The Ice Knife” (8B+). Below are Daniel’s thoughts on the problem from his 8a. The video is of Paul and Daniel climbing the stand-start.
“The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest. The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that.”
I thought I’d mention that I became a contributor to the climbing media blog Island.io. I’m very excited to have my photos among those of some of the best climbers in the world! Here’s an album of photo’s from Sawmill Creek Dome, in Northern Minnesota, hope you like them!
Seems like most of climbing’s elite athletes choose to spend what would be the summer months in the Northern Hemisphere, climbing in cooler temps in the Grampians. Here’s a video of Nalle Hukkataival getting his climb on down under! Enjoy!
Edit: thought this was new, looks like it’s from 2011, still great climbing!
Chris Sharma recently spent some time in the Grampians of Australia, climbing some of the classic lines on some of the best Sandstone in the world. One climb featured in the video is Grove Train(33/8c/5.14b) there is also a short snippet of Chris bouldering what looks like The Wheel of Life(V15). Pretty sweet!
The dates for the Minnesota Climbers Association’s Save Sandstone Festival are fast approaching! This weekend(Oct. 19 & 20) climbers and outdoor enthusiasts will flock to Robinson Park in Sandstone, MN to help save a small piece of Minnesota bouldering. Information about the event can be found on the event page on Facebook as well as the story behind the land that we are trying to purchase. Organic Climbing has even created some awesome custom Chalk Buckets, Chalk Bags, and Slider Pads for this effort. You can buy these on the MCA’s website, all proceed go toward the Save Sandstone Fund!
It’s been great to see the Minnesota climbing community come together to get this thing going and hopefully all the hard work will be rewarded!
This video has been making its way around the web, and I feel compelled to share it as well. Here we see something not done very often, not one, but two V16s climbed by Czech climbing phenom Adam Ondra. The first is Terranova in Adam’s homeland of Czech Republic, put up by Adam himself in 2011. The second is Gioia, in Varazza, Italy, which was first scent by Christian Gore in 2008. If watching Adam conquer these boulders doesn’t get you psyched to climb, I don’t know what will.
Due to Congress’s inability to pass a spending bill, the US Government has shut down. As a part of this all National Parks are closed to visitors. Head over to the Access Fund and let your congressmen know how you feel about the situation. As you may have heard Chris Sharma has joined forces with Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Jonathan Siegrist, to try to tackle the Dawn Wall in Yosemite this Fall, so we need the parks back open!