Nalle has been throwing down a lot of hard ascents near Maltatal, Austria lately and this one may be his hardest ever. A known project for about 13 years, the sit start to Bügeleisen climbs up a large, overhanging block of stone. Having to fight poor weather conditions over the past few years, Nalle finally found the fitness and conditions necessary to take this project down. In a Facebook post Nalle says the this line “could be the hardest thing I’ve climbed”. That’s saying a lot considering his recent ascent of Gioia, a problem that’s been given the rating of V16 by both its first ascensionist, and Adam Ondra who nabbed the second ascent!
In this article from Climbing Magazine we get some useful tips on improving you knee health. This is something that I’ve been increasingly aware of over the past year as I’ve noticed those heel hooks on steep overhanging climbs really torquing my knee. Click on over for some general knee wellness tips, as well as some specific exercises to strengthen many components of the knee.
In this new video we get to see Nalle’s ascent of one of the hardest boulder problems in the world Gioia in Varazze, Italy. The problem is rated 8C+(V16). Nalle contends that this is indeed one of the hardest boulder problems he has ever done, but questions whether it is a full grade harder than most 8C’s already out there.
While it may seem improbable given the frigid Winter we’ve had here in Minnesota, Spring is right around the corner. In the last couple weeks we’ve even had a few days in the 40’s! You may have been stuck in the gym all Winter and if your training regiment has been lacking(or like mine, nearly non-existent) here are several new workouts from Climbing Magazine to get you in shape for the Spring season; all while keeping you on the wall.
In a video by Cameron Maier American strong men Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb attack a classic new hard-line in Las Vegas’ Red Rock Canyon.
Watch Dave Graham battle rain and try bouldering projects in the beautiful Grampians of Australia. The month long trip in 2011 culminated with his first ascent of Wave Swoop(V14)
Follow Daniel Woods along with fellow strong man Jimmy Webb and videographer Cameron Maier (Bearcam) through a day in Bishop, CA. From Bouldering to Beers this video is more than enough to make many of us envious of their lifestyle.
From DW’s Instagram “Last night was a surreal moment for me. It was pitch black out with a couple lights shining to light up the golden pathway of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming (v15). The humidity and cold combination was just right to be able and stick to the glassy non existent holds. I had a nervous feeling in my stomach about what was going to happen if I got through the crux section and had to commit to the final 30 foot slab section in the dark (I did have a headlamp for the slab). Luckily, I had an amazing support crew to help me stay in the zone. I blasted my beats on my @goalzero #rockout2 speaker, chalked up and set off. Every move felt perfect and before I knew it, I was on top of the Grandpa Peabody boulder for Lucid’s 2nd ascent. This line is stunning, aggressive, and committing. Props to Paul for linking these moves”-DW
After 8a.nu posted the news that Paul had made the 3rd ascent of The Nest in Red Rocks, Nevada, Dan Cannaday posed an inquiry as to Paul’s thoughts on the downgrade of his Red Rocks line Meadowlark Lemon (8B+, originally 8C). Paul kindly responded with his thoughts. See below.
“That is a very good question, Dan. To preface, my beta on Meadowlark Lemon was very different from each of the ascents after mine. I worked the boulder alone and found a way to get to the top and though it may have not been the easiest it was feasible and that is the way I climbed it. For me, this felt like 8C and I am assuming others would feel the same way. New beta was discovered and refined and thus the downgrade to 8B+. This happens with time and there is no harm in a downgrade when beta gets refined and perfected after the first ascentionist climbs the boulder.
If I was grading the two boulders off of how they felt to me (original MLL beta), I think MLL may be slightly harder as it was more consistently hard than the nest. However, the nest has 1 move on it that is much harder than any single move on MLL. This makes it difficult to grade, however, I do believe it falls within the 8C grade. It is actualy quite interesting because Daniel, Jimmy, and myself did the crux of the nest all differently but thought it to be around the same difficulty. It really shows the strengths of each climber and how we climb so uniquely at our limits.
This is why it is so hard to rate boulders to begin with… we all climb so uniquely and that is what makes our sport so special :)”-Paul Robinson
Head over to The Island to check out Dave Graham working on the unrepeated Daniel Woods testpiece, Hypnotized Minds (8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park!