Two days ago Daniel Woods nabbed the FA of the sit-start variation of Dave Graham’s “The Ice Knife” (8B+). Below are Daniel’s thoughts on the problem from his 8a. The video is of Paul and Daniel climbing the stand-start.
“The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest. The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that.”
I thought I’d mention that I became a contributor to the climbing media blog Island.io. I’m very excited to have my photos among those of some of the best climbers in the world! Here’s an album of photo’s from Sawmill Creek Dome, in Northern Minnesota, hope you like them!
Seems like most of climbing’s elite athletes choose to spend what would be the summer months in the Northern Hemisphere, climbing in cooler temps in the Grampians. Here’s a video of Nalle Hukkataival getting his climb on down under! Enjoy!
Edit: thought this was new, looks like it’s from 2011, still great climbing!
Chris Sharma recently spent some time in the Grampians of Australia, climbing some of the classic lines on some of the best Sandstone in the world. One climb featured in the video is Grove Train(33/8c/5.14b) there is also a short snippet of Chris bouldering what looks like The Wheel of Life(V15). Pretty sweet!
The dates for the Minnesota Climbers Association’s Save Sandstone Festival are fast approaching! This weekend(Oct. 19 & 20) climbers and outdoor enthusiasts will flock to Robinson Park in Sandstone, MN to help save a small piece of Minnesota bouldering. Information about the event can be found on the event page on Facebook as well as the story behind the land that we are trying to purchase. Organic Climbing has even created some awesome custom Chalk Buckets, Chalk Bags, and Slider Pads for this effort. You can buy these on the MCA’s website, all proceed go toward the Save Sandstone Fund!
It’s been great to see the Minnesota climbing community come together to get this thing going and hopefully all the hard work will be rewarded!
This video has been making its way around the web, and I feel compelled to share it as well. Here we see something not done very often, not one, but two V16s climbed by Czech climbing phenom Adam Ondra. The first is Terranova in Adam’s homeland of Czech Republic, put up by Adam himself in 2011. The second is Gioia, in Varazza, Italy, which was first scent by Christian Gore in 2008. If watching Adam conquer these boulders doesn’t get you psyched to climb, I don’t know what will.
Here’s the video by Beau Kahler of Daniels Woods sending the 60-move behemoth of a boulder problem in the Land Down Under. Brought to you by the fine crafters of crash pads, Organic Climbing . Some words from Daniel on the send can be found in this previous post
From a post by Organic Climbing “In 2004, Japanese climber Dai Koyamada climbed the king line out of the Hollow Mountain cave; “The Wheel of Life.” The 60+ move monster links X-Treme Cool (7C), Sleepy Hallow (8A), Cave Man (7C), and Dead Can’t Dance (8A). Rests separate each boulder problem, but you are climbing out a horizontal ceiling, so it is impossible to stay “fully recovered” (unless your Alex Megos, he did not get pumped). This aspect of the climb was challenging for me. I have never completed a line of this style before. Usually after 30 moves I become fully loaded. Learning how to accomplish such a line was the main attraction along with the sheer beauty The Wheel of Life offered. Everything about the problem is perfect from holds to moves. I battled with poor conditions for the first few days but used this time to learn each section and build endurance. Instead of robotically moving between each hold, I learned how to flow and gain rhythm to conserve energy. The Wheel of life boils down to one low percentage move at the end. You have to place a right heel hook on a flat wall panel, keep tension and reach backward with your right hand to a sloping gaston pocket, pull into your shoulder and hope it doesn’t break, then get your left foot up next to your right and finish off on jugs. I would climb to the end several times, but did not have the mental capacity to keep going. This became a mind game, in which prevented me from sending. 3 days before my departure back to America, blue skies and a dry wind came through the cave. My friend Beau Kahler and 3 local Aussies were the only ones up there. I spent 20 minutes brushing each hold and going through the sections in my head. This was the first time I could visualize myself climbing the moves in a relaxed manor. I felt psyched and pulled on for my first attempt. I climbed all the way to the end but crumbled on the gaston move. After an hour off, I found myself back at the beginning staring back at the line. My stomach started to feel nauseas as I envisioned the process of getting through each section. I pulled on and set off. I had fun with the moves and developed a good flow. I arrived to the last boulder and just had 2 more moves remaining. I was able to turn my head off and climb through the gaston to the top. It felt incredible to be on top of the cave and overcome the mental challenge that this line presented. The Wheel of Life has always been a lifelong goal and now it is completed.” Daniel Woods.
This Saturday I went up to Sawmill Creek Dome on the North Shore of Lake Superior for a fun day of bouldering. It was only my second time climbing in the area. My first trip to Sawmill was a somewhat miserable affair. The weather happened to be colder than expected, with snow falling sporadically throughout the day, and I, unfortunately, had neglected to pack sufficient clothing. So I froze my ass off. For this trip the weather was much warmer, but that also meant the friction was not as good. That made some of the harder climbs even more difficult, as success on these problems can greatly depend on how well your skin can adhere to the course textures of the Anorthosite rocks. It was a lot of fun though. I got on a couple of problems I hadn’t tried before such as Absolution, a tenuous V5 high ball, and The Warmup slab. This photo is me trying out a project, which Kris Johnson nabbed the supposed FA of minutes after this photo was taken.