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Caldwell and Honnold complete epic traverse in Patagonia

Map of the path taken by Caldwell and Honnold

Caldwell and Honnold complete epic traverse in Patagonia

Rolando Garibotti reports on Super Topo of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold’s completion of the “Fitz Traverse”, a truly amazing achievement!

“Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed “Fitz Traverse”, climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia. “

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Daniel Woods nabs 2nd ascent of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming(V15) in the Buttermilks.

Daniel Woods nabs 2nd ascent of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming(V15) in the Buttermilks.

From DW’s Instagram “Last night was a surreal moment for me. It was pitch black out with a couple lights shining to light up the golden pathway of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming (v15). The humidity and cold combination was just right to be able and stick to the glassy non existent holds. I had a nervous feeling in my stomach about what was going to happen if I got through the crux section and had to commit to the final 30 foot slab section in the dark (I did have a headlamp for the slab). Luckily, I had an amazing support crew to help me stay in the zone. I blasted my beats on my @goalzero #rockout2 speaker, chalked up and set off. Every move felt perfect and before I knew it, I was on top of the Grandpa Peabody boulder for Lucid’s 2nd ascent. This line is stunning, aggressive, and committing. Props to Paul for linking these moves”-DW

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Alex Honnold: A Question of Risk

https://vimeo.com/84716329

In a new series from Black Diamond, Alex Honnold talks about the aspect of “risk” in the climbing, and everyday activities, he does.

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Alex Honnold Frees 1,500 ft. El Sendero Luminoso in Mexico

Alex Honnold Frees 1,500 ft. El Sendero Luminoso in Mexico

Take a look at Outside magazines account of Honnold’s latest free solo escapade, climbing the 1,500 foot limestone route El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico.  A route the contains many pitches of technical 5.12 climbing, Alex and climbing partner Cedar Wright practiced the route four times before Honnold’s solo attempt, which Alex says “..felt pretty straight forward.”

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Climbing

Paul Robinson gets 3rd ascent of Daniel Woods’ The Nest (8C) and gives insight to Meadowlark Lemon Downgrade

After 8a.nu posted the news that Paul had made the 3rd ascent of The Nest in Red Rocks, Nevada, Dan Cannaday posed an inquiry as to Paul’s thoughts on the downgrade of his Red Rocks line Meadowlark Lemon (8B+, originally 8C).  Paul kindly responded with his thoughts.  See below. 

“That is a very good question, Dan.  To preface, my beta on Meadowlark Lemon was very different from each of the ascents after mine.  I worked the boulder alone and found a way to get to the top and though it may have not been the easiest it was feasible and that is the way I climbed it.  For me, this felt like 8C and I am assuming others would feel the same way.  New beta was discovered and refined and thus the downgrade to 8B+.  This happens with time and there is no harm in a downgrade when beta gets refined and perfected after the first ascentionist climbs the boulder.

If I was grading the two boulders off of how they felt to me (original MLL beta), I think MLL may be slightly harder as it was more consistently hard than the nest.  However, the nest has 1 move on it that is much harder than any single move on MLL.  This makes it difficult to grade, however, I do believe it falls within the 8C grade.  It is actualy quite interesting because Daniel, Jimmy, and myself did the crux of the nest all differently but thought it to be around the same difficulty.  It really shows the strengths of each climber and how we climb so uniquely at our limits.  

This is why it is so hard to rate boulders to begin with… we all climb so uniquely and that is what makes our sport so special :)”-Paul Robinson

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Dave Graham vs Hypnotized Minds – Part 1

https://www.island.io/sean-morgan/dg-vs-hypnotized-minds-part-1

Head over to The Island to check out Dave Graham working on the unrepeated Daniel Woods testpiece, Hypnotized Minds (8C) in Rocky Mountain National Park!

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Daniel Woods-“This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing”

Two days ago Daniel Woods nabbed the FA of the sit-start variation of Dave Graham’s “The Ice Knife” (8B+). Below are Daniel’s thoughts on the problem from his 8a. The video is of Paul and Daniel climbing the stand-start.

Enjoy!

“The epic is finally over! 13 days of battling with conditions and falling off of every move (including the final v2 move), implanted doubt in my mind if this thing was going to go down this year. Dave put up the stand 2 years ago and it has settled at hard 8B+. The sit adds in a powerful and awkward 4 move 8A+ into the 8B+ with no rest. The style of this boulder is different than anything I have climbed on. The holds require good friction and the movement is off balance and weird. It is such a beautiful boulder and now the full line is complete! This is my hardest boulder that I have done within my style of climbing. Numbers are so subjective, so for someone else, this could not be so hard. I know it is my personal best and will leave it at that.”

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Daniel Woods on The Wheel of Life

Here’s the video by Beau Kahler of Daniels Woods sending the 60-move behemoth of a boulder problem in the Land Down Under. Brought to you by the fine crafters of crash pads, Organic Climbing .  Some words from Daniel on the send can be found in this previous post

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Daniel Woods sends “Wheel of LIfe” (V15)

Daniel Woods on Wheel of Life

From a post by Organic Climbing “In 2004, Japanese climber Dai Koyamada climbed the king line out of the Hollow Mountain cave; “The Wheel of Life.” The 60+ move monster links X-Treme Cool (7C), Sleepy Hallow (8A), Cave Man (7C), and Dead Can’t Dance (8A). Rests separate each boulder problem, but you are climbing out a horizontal ceiling, so it is impossible to stay “fully recovered” (unless your Alex Megos, he did not get pumped). This aspect of the climb was challenging for me. I have never completed a line of this style before. Usually after 30 moves I become fully loaded. Learning how to accomplish such a line was the main attraction along with the sheer beauty The Wheel of Life offered. Everything about the problem is perfect from holds to moves. I battled with poor conditions for the first few days but used this time to learn each section and build endurance. Instead of robotically moving between each hold, I learned how to flow and gain rhythm to conserve energy. The Wheel of life boils down to one low percentage move at the end. You have to place a right heel hook on a flat wall panel, keep tension and reach backward with your right hand to a sloping gaston pocket, pull into your shoulder and hope it doesn’t break, then get your left foot up next to your right and finish off on jugs. I would climb to the end several times, but did not have the mental capacity to keep going. This became a mind game, in which prevented me from sending. 3 days before my departure back to America, blue skies and a dry wind came through the cave. My friend Beau Kahler and 3 local Aussies were the only ones up there. I spent 20 minutes brushing each hold and going through the sections in my head. This was the first time I could visualize myself climbing the moves in a relaxed manor. I felt psyched and pulled on for my first attempt. I climbed all the way to the end but crumbled on the gaston move. After an hour off, I found myself back at the beginning staring back at the line. My stomach started to feel nauseas as I envisioned the process of getting through each section. I pulled on and set off. I had fun with the moves and developed a good flow. I arrived to the last boulder and just had 2 more moves remaining. I was able to turn my head off and climb through the gaston to the top. It felt incredible to be on top of the cave and overcome the mental challenge that this line presented. The Wheel of Life has always been a lifelong goal and now it is completed.” Daniel Woods.

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Fun Day at Sawmill

Fun Day at Sawmill

This Saturday I went up to Sawmill Creek Dome on the North Shore of Lake Superior for a fun day of bouldering. It was only my second time climbing in the area. My first trip to Sawmill was a somewhat miserable affair. The weather happened to be colder than expected, with snow falling sporadically throughout the day, and I, unfortunately, had neglected to pack sufficient clothing. So I froze my ass off. For this trip the weather was much warmer, but that also meant the friction was not as good. That made some of the harder climbs even more difficult, as success on these problems can greatly depend on how well your skin can adhere to the course textures of the Anorthosite rocks. It was a lot of fun though. I got on a couple of problems I hadn’t tried before such as Absolution, a tenuous V5 high ball, and The Warmup slab. This photo is me trying out a project, which Kris Johnson nabbed the supposed FA of minutes after this photo was taken.